The next time you look at yourself in the mirror, take a second to pause and ponder this: in every adult body depending on size there are approximately 30 to 37 ๐ต๐ณ๐ช๐ญ๐ญ๐ช๐ฐ๐ฏ cells, an unfathomable number that boggles the mind.โฃ
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None of your cells would work together if they were not guided by DNA. DNA is the molecule that contains the genetic instructions for development, growth, and reproduction. It is what makes me ๐ฎ๐ฆ and you ๐บ๐ฐ๐ถ. Without this blueprint, our bodies would quickly devolve into chaos.โฃ
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Youโve probably heard of fragrance DNA too.โฃ
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Before a fragrance is made, a houseโs Creative Director comes up with the inspiration. They work with a Perfumer, who translates that idea into scent. Once the final formula is agreed upon, its profile and performance become the benchmark of the fragrance. That is its DNA.โฃ
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One of the easiest ways to identify the most influential fragrance DNAs is by seeing how many copies or spin-offs they have. Creed Aventus, Dior Sauvage, and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 sit at the apex of fragrance royalty, and have been copied countless times. They are known even by people who barely think about perfumery. But they are also victims of their own success.โฃ
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When a fragrance is truly groundbreaking, it can spawn dozens or even hundreds of similar releases. This happens because there are no copyright laws protecting fragrance compositions. A DNA can become overused if it becomes too familiar. This does not diminish the beauty of the scent profile, but smelling like everyone else? That’s not something most senior frag heads want anything to do with.โฃ
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But then there are other beautiful DNAs that inspire imitation on a smaller scale. They are not as ubiquitous, and that rarity is part of their charm. You can trust that you will likely be the only one wearing them in a room. From this tier of fragrances, YSL Tuxedo stands out. It is idiosyncratic, memorable and instantly recognizable once you know it. Despite being cloned several times, it remains surprisingly under-discussed, even amongst serious collectors.โฃ
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๐๐ก๐๐ญ ๐ข๐ฌ ๐๐๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐๐จ ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ ๐๐๐ญ๐๐ก๐จ๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ข?โฃ
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The latest version of Tuxedo is the flanker Tuxedo Sharp Patchouli, currently available in Canada at Holt Renfrew. It is a mesmerizing fragrance with a quality level far above most designers.โฃ
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I borrowed my friendโs brand-new bottle of YSL Tuxedo Sharp Patchouli for this article, and it did not disappoint. The bottle is heavy and crystal-like. The magnetic cap has real heft and an embossed YSL logo. The juice is a rich amber color. Everything about the presentation reinforces that you are holding something premium.โฃ
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And premium it is, in every sense.โฃ
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The star here is the patchouli: earthy, smoky, elegant and beautifully controlled. It never dominates or becomes cloying. The patchouli and bourbon vanilla are listed as base notes, yet they are readily apparent from opening to drydown. Supporting notes like rose, black pepper, violet leaf, lily-of-the-valley and coriander are also present, but the blend is so refined that it is more difficult to isolate those individual components. The fragrance moves as one seamless whole.โฃ
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It is high quality, refined, complete. A luxurious experience.โฃ
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This is a perfectly unisex fragrance that works in professional settings and formal occasions alike. It rewards dressing well and projects competence, tradition and craftsmanship. It smells expensive because it ๐ช๐ด expensive.โฃ
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๐๐ซ๐ข๐ ๐ข๐ง๐๐ฅ ๐๐ฎ๐ฑ๐๐๐จ ๐ฏ๐ฌ. ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ฉ ๐๐๐ญ๐๐ก๐จ๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ขโฃ
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If you already own the original Tuxedo, you do not need the new flanker unless you are a collector. The patchouli is slightly boosted in the newest iteration, but side by side most people will not notice a difference in the air. The change is subtle, not transformative.โฃ
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This is not exactly blind-buy safe, but for many people Tuxedo is intoxicating. The problem is price: $450 CAD for 125 ml. That alone guarantees clones would follow.โฃ
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๐๐ก๐ฒ ๐๐ฅ๐จ๐ง๐๐ฌ ๐๐ฑ๐ข๐ฌ๐ญโฃ
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Whenever a fragrance is priced out of reach, budget brands move in. They promise access to the DNA without the financial sting.โฃ
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For this article I purchased:โฃ
- Rochas Moustache EDP (125 ml for $40 CAD on FB Marketplace)โฃ
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- Fragrance World Suits (100 ml for $23 + tax from The Fragrance Shop in Newmarket, ON)โฃ
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- Maison Alhambra The Tux / Winsome (100 ml for $25 on FB Marketplace)โฃ
Thatโs 325 ml for under $100 CAD. The question is not whether thatโs good value. The question is how close they come to the Tuxedo experience.โฃ
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๐๐จ๐๐ก๐๐ฌ ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ญ๐๐๐ก๐ ๐๐๐ โ ๐๐ก๐ ๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ข๐งโฃ
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This is the furthest from Tuxedo, but that is not a weakness.โฃ
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Moustache opens with a luscious green mandarin and replaces Tuxedo’s black pepper with pink pepper. Patchouli is pushed back, and the fragrance leans more into vanilla and rose. There is a subtle metallic feel present that I don’t get in the original. Moustache EDP is only about 70% similar to Tuxedo.โฃ
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I see Moustache EDP as less of a clone and more of a reinterpretation. It is elegant, warm and versatile. Perfect for fall and winter nights, and even workable in spring or cool summer evenings. It is also the only bottle that does not mimic YSLโs design, which I appreciate. Rochas has a few different Moustaches, all which have almost the same presentation.โฃ
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Most importantly, it lasts. On my skin Moustache EDP handily outperforms both Suits and The Tux, and even lasts longer than Tuxedo itself.โฃ
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It does not need to be a 1:1 clone. It only needs to be Moustache, and Moustache smells fantastic.โฃ
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๐๐๐ข๐ฌ๐จ๐ง ๐๐ฅ๐ก๐๐ฆ๐๐ซ๐ ๐๐ก๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ฑ / ๐๐ข๐ง๐ฌ๐จ๐ฆ๐ โ ๐๐ก๐ ๐๐ฎ๐๐ ๐๐ญ ๐๐ฆ๐ฉ๐ซ๐๐ฌ๐ฌ๐ข๐จ๐งโฃ
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A few years ago, The Tux was the Tuxedo clone. At times it sold for over $80 CAD. When I first sprayed my bottle, I understood neither the hype nor the reputation. It was weak, fleeting, and not very close.โฃ
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After three weeks of sitting, it improved noticeably. The scent is closer now and performance is better. This is common with Middle Eastern clone houses. Still, it remains rougher and less blended than Tuxedo.โฃ
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It sits at about 80โ85% similarity. It projects for about two hours and becomes a skin scent for another two to three. It smells clearly related to Tuxedo, but the polish is clearly missing.โฃ
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For the price, it is fair. Just donโt expect refinement or miracles.โฃ
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๐ซ๐๐ ๐ซ๐๐ง๐๐ ๐๐จ๐ซ๐ฅ๐ ๐๐ฎ๐ข๐ญ๐ฌ โ ๐๐ก๐ ๐๐ฅ๐จ๐ฌ๐๐ฌ๐ญ ๐๐ฅ๐จ๐ง๐โฃ
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If accuracy is the goal, Suits wins.โฃ
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Even out of the box it was closer to Tuxedo than The Tux. The blending is better, the structure more cohesive and the scent more uniform. After maceration it smells even closer and lasts longer.โฃ
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This fragrance was clearly designed with one purpose: replicate Tuxedo as faithfully as possible. In the air Fragrance World succeeded, most people would not detect a difference.โฃ
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Up close, however, the difference is obvious. Tuxedo smells natural, deep and expensive. Suits smells similar but synthetic, like a high-end air freshener inspired by luxury rather than luxury itself. Think real roses versus a rose-scented room spray.โฃ
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Suits is impressive for the price, but it is not the full experience.โฃ
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๐ข๐ง๐๐ฅ ๐ญ๐ก๐จ๐ฎ๐ ๐ก๐ญ๐ฌโฃ
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All three smell sophisticated and are well worth their prices, but none of them are as good as YSL Tuxedo.โฃ
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YSL has decades of history, elite R&D, access to better materials and some of the finest noses in the industry. That shows. In fact, I believe that if YSL eliminated its entry-level releases, it could arguably stand among the great niche houses. But that pedigree comes at a cost.โฃ
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Once you cross $250 CAD, many masterpieces become accessible. Tuxedo is far above this threshold.โฃ
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Clones exist to democratize the DNA. They do not replace the original. They offer access to the idea. While Suits and The Tux smell like younger siblings of Tuxedo, Moustache smells like a cousin.โฃ
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As for me, I found myself rarely reaching for Suits or The Tux. Rochas Moustache EDP, on the other hand, became a joy to wear. It is not trying to be Tuxedo. It takes inspiration and builds something personal, green and subtly elegant. While I’m looking to sell my bottles of Suits and The Tux, I plan on keeping Rochas EDP. Ignore the low cost, it provides a take on Tuxedo that is niche level and marches to its own beat, which I enjoyed more than the OG.
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And that, to me, is far more interesting than imitation.
